In the early part of his career Kirkland worked in a small photography studio in Richmond, Virginia. It was during this period – a formative and influential time in his professional life, that he became fascinated by the photographer Irving Penn., the young photographer made the bold move to contact him via letter, an ambitious decision which eventually led to Kirkland’s employment as Penn’s assistant during the 1950s.

Leaving Irving Penn’s studio marked the beginning of his enduring and illustrious career at the cutting edge of fashion, portraiture and celebrity photography. Kirkland began by building his own portfolio and career through small collaborations with lesser-known magazines and then working initially with LOOK Magazine and later with LIFE, Paris Match, The Sunday Times Magazine and Italian Vanity Fair - his work for these prestigious publications immortalized the cultural icons of the 20th Century. Kirkland’s portraits of such monumental stars as Marilyn Monroe whom he photographed in a closed studio setting in 1961 and Coco Chanel at work in the later part of her career are characterized by their profound sense of human connection, empathy and respect.